In and Around Kabul

These are photos that I have taken in and around Kabul over the past couple of years. Kabul is a bit dangerous. It’s also a fun place. I have never had a bad experience in the city. Chicken Street is a riot even if it is a bit pricey these days. City Centre is a nice place to have a cup of coffee on the roof and survey the city. The Kabul Coffee House is a great place for an Ice Mocha with other ex-pats. Night time at Wazir Akhbar Khan Line 15 is a great place to dance the night away or have a few drinks and check out all of the femme ex-pats, Chinese hookers or Filipina gals. The Marco Polo Restaurant is good for excellent Italian cuisine. Some of the Chinese Restaurants actually serve chinese food. lol

I do know of people who have had terrible experiences there. One friend of mine was beaten badly in a roust of the local underground clubs. The “police” took him outside and beat him until his ribs were bruised black and blue. Then took him to their “police station” and kindly accepted a couple hundred dollars for his release. During this same raid, a group of Filipina girls were taken out and raped repeatedly. This set off a huge international incident. The Chinese “Restaurants” are raided about once every three months. Any place that sells alcohol is subject to being raided by one faction or another. Womens Beauty salons can be raided at any time if they are accused of being houses of prostitution. The accusation of prostitution can stem from an incident as simple as a local Mullah walking by and hearing loud laughter. Police at checkpoints will attempt to bribe you for a 20 spot to pass through their territory. This is easily defeated by stating loudly and aggressively that you are US Army and not backing down. This works as I’ve used it. The local police are scared to death of the US Army. Now that I train them and am on cheek kissing terms with the local Regional Commander, I’m pretty much untouchable. Not that I go off post alone these days. Since being hired by this new company and moving to the West, it’s UAV MILCON or nothing. Can’t go wrong in an armored vehicle.

This place wasn’t always so terrifying and violent. Before the Taliban, before the War of the Warlords. Back when the King was attempting to enact liberal reforms. Kabul was a haven for dope smoking hippies. That was the 60s and 70s. Kabul was also a Euro holiday spot. Places like Mazar-e Sherif, Ghazni and Herat, even Q’andahar, were tourist spots as well. Of course, that all came to a screeching halt when the Soviets came crashing in to install peace and prosperity at the tip of the communist sword. Back in 2006. As I was driving around, I did see a few tourist running around. I saw a couple of backpackers in September of 2007 sneaking around Kabul and I’ve heard of the occasional tourist and backpacker passing through Herat since I’ve been here. It will be years before the tourists come back in any respectable numbers due to the terror element. Such a shame. There is much to be seen and much to experience in Afghanistan.

Mark Steyn: America’s longest war will leave no trace



Say what you like about Afghans, but they’re admirably straightforward. The mobs outside the bases enflamed over the latest Western affront to their exquisitely refined cultural sensitivities couldn’t put it any plainer:

“Die, die, foreigners!”

And foreigners do die. U.S. Air Force Lt. Col. John Loftis, 44, and Army Maj. Robert Marchanti II, 48, lost their lives not on some mission out on the far horizon in wild tribal lands in the dead of night but in the offices of the Afghan Interior Ministry. In a “secure room” that required a numerical code to access. Gunned down by an Afghan “intelligence officer.” Who then departed the scene of the crime unimpeded by any of his colleagues.

Some news outlets reported the event as a “security breach.” But what exactly was breached? The murderer was by all accounts an employee of the Afghan government, with legitimate rights of access to the building and its secure room, and “liaising” with his U.S. advisers and “mentors” was part of the job. In Afghanistan, foreigners are dying at the hands of the locals who know them best. The Afghans trained by Westerners, paid by Westerners and befriended by Westerners are the ones who have the easiest opportunity to kill them. It is sufficiently non-unusual that the Pentagon, as is the wont with bureaucracies, already has a term for it: “green-on-blue incidents,” in which a uniformed Afghan turns his gun on his Western “allies.”

So we have a convenient label for what’s happening; what we don’t have is a strategy to stop it – other than more money, more “hearts and minds” for people who seem notably lacking in both, and more bulk orders of the bestselling book “Three Cups Of Tea,” an Oprahfied heap of drivel extensively exposed as an utter fraud but which a delusional Washington insists on sticking in the kit bag of its Afghan-bound officer class.

Don’t fancy the tea? A U.S. base in southern Afghanistan was recently stricken by food poisoning due to mysteriously high amounts of chlorine in the coffee. As Navy Capt. John Kirby explained, “We don’t know if it was deliberate or something in the cleaning process.”

Oh, dear. You could chisel that on the tombstones of any number of expeditionary forces over the centuries: “Afghanistan. It’s something in the cleaning process.”

In the past couple of months, two prominent politicians of different nations visiting their troops on the ground have used the same image to me for Western military bases: crusader forts. Behind the fortifications, a mini-West has been built in a cheerless land: There are Coke machines and Krispy Kreme doughnuts. Safely back within the gates, a man can climb out of the full RoboCop and stop pretending he enjoys three cups of tea with the duplicitous warlords, drug barons and pederasts who pass for Afghanistan’s ruling class. The visiting Western dignitary is cautiously shuttled through outer and inner perimeters, and reminded that, even here, there are areas he would be ill-advised to venture unaccompanied, and tries to banish memories of his first tour all those years ago when aides still twittered optimistically about the possibility of a photo-op at a girls’ schoolroom in Jalalabad or an Internet start-up in Kabul.

The last crusader fort I visited was Kerak Castle in Jordan a few years ago. It was built in the 1140s, and still impresses today. I doubt there will be any remains of our latter-day fortresses a millennium hence. Six weeks after the last NATO soldier leaves Afghanistan, it will be as if we were never there. Before the election in 2010, the New York Post carried a picture of women registering to vote in Herat, all in identical top-to-toe bright blue burkas, just as they would have looked on Sept. 10, 2001. We came, we saw, we left no trace. America’s longest war will leave nothing behind.

They can breach our security, but we cannot breach theirs – the vast impregnable psychological fortress in which what passes for the Pushtun mind resides. Someone accidentally burned a Quran your pals had already defaced with covert messages? Die, die, foreigners! The president of the United States issues a groveling and characteristically clueless apology for it? Die, die, foreigners! The American friend who has trained you and hired you and paid you has arrived for a meeting? Die, die, foreigners! And those are the Afghans who know us best. To the upcountry village headmen, the fellows descending from the skies in full body armor are as alien as were the space invaders to Americans in the film “Independence Day.”

The Rumsfeld strategy that toppled the Taliban over a decade ago was brilliant and innovative: special forces on horseback using GPS to call in unmanned drones. They will analyze it in staff colleges around the world for decades. But what we ought to be analyzing instead is the sad, aimless, bloated, arthritic, transnationalized folly of what followed. The United States is an historical anomaly: the nonimperial superpower. Colonialism is not in its DNA, and in some ways that speaks well for it, and in other ways, in a hostile and fast-changing world of predators and opportunists, it does not. But even nations of an unimperialist bent have roused themselves to great transformative “cleaning processes” within living memory: The Ottawa Citizen’s David Warren wrote this week that he had “conferred the benefit of the doubt” on “the grand bureaucratic project of ‘nation building’… predicated on post-War successes in Germany and Japan.”

It wasn’t that long ago, was it? Except that, as Warren says, the times are “so utterly changed.” It seems certain that, waging World War II today, the RAF would not carpet-bomb Dresden, and the U.S. would not nuke Hiroshima and Nagasaki. And, lacking the will to inflict massive, total defeat, would we also lack the will to inflict that top-to-toe “cleaning process”?

Ah, well. Kabul is not Berlin or Tokyo. As long as wily mischief-makers are not using it as a base for global mayhem, who cares? To modify Bismarck, the Hindu Kush is not worth the bones of a single Pennsylvanian grenadier, or “training officer.” Afghanistan is about Afghanistan – if you’re Afghan or Pakistani. But, if you’re Russian or Chinese or Iranian or European, Afghanistan is about America. And too much about the Afghan campaign is too emblematic. As much as any bailed-out corporation, the U.S. is “too big to fail”: In Afghanistan as in the stimulus, it was money no object. The combined Western military/aid presence accounts for 98 percent of that benighted land’s GDP. We carpet-bomb with dollar bills; we have the most advanced technology known to man; we have everything except strategic purpose.

That “crusader fort” image has a broader symbolism. The post-American world is arising before our eyes. According to the IMF, China will become the dominant economic power by 2016. Putin is on course to return to the Kremlin corner office. In Tehran, the mullahs nuclearize with impunity. New spheres of influence are being established in North Africa, in Central Europe, in the once-reliably “American lake” of the Pacific. Can America itself be a crusader fort? A fortress secure behind the interminable checkpoints of Code Orange TSA bureaucratic torpor while beyond the moat the mob jeers “Die, die, foreigners”? Or, in the end, will it prove as effortlessly penetrable as the “secure room” of the Afghan Interior Ministry?


Just last week….my mentee told me that “we have to pray that the Americans stay.”

Out of a country of millions, I’d say that less than 10,000 assmonkeys were out there in the Qu’ran protests.  Everyone else went about life and really didn’t give a fuck enough to comment on it.  lol

We need to step off of this nation building shit.  We also need to step off with being world po po and world welfarist/statist.

Let them eat cake…let them eat bullets…I don’t give a fuck.

If we are going to go in and conquer a country, we should do it.  We could have conquered Afghanistan with relative ease.  We had the power to do so.

We had the tech.  We had the Joes.  We had the right allies.

Where we fucked up was in giving into the liberal fantasy that a Pushtoon is a modern man with modern affinities for democracy, women’s rights, children’s rights, a love of freedom.

If we were talking Tajiks, Uzbeks…sure, they would make great Democrats.

Pushtoons are illiterate superstitious thugs from the nether regions.  We should send a shit load of them there on the way out when we go…but we won’t….Obama is about to hand them the keys with his “good” or “moderate” taliban nonsense.

In the early days of the war, Rashid Doostum offered to clean up Pushtoonistan if we’d arm his personal army and set them loose.  We turned him down and then marginalized him.  He was our only real ally in Afghanistan, even if he is fucking insane.  He’s the only Democratic minded man amongst the Afghans.  He famously said, “I don’t understand why girls can’t go to school.  I don’t understand why a man can’t have a drink.  I don’t understand why we can’t dance and listen to music.”  That pretty much sums it up for Afghanistan.    We have kowtowed to their religious fanaticism since the beginning and expected it to lessen for our having done so.

We also place a weak chump in the presidency when we had men in place who would have wielded that power with resolution.  Doostum for one would have consolidated power and would have re-built Afghanistan instead of stealing every penny proffered.  To be sure, Doostum would have enriched himself.  He’d simply not have been as greedy as these fucks and he would have been ruthless in putting down his enemies.  Instead of crying about civilian casualties, he’d have been inflicting them amongst the Pushtoons.

It would have been bloody but the blood would have been on Afghan hands and not American or coalition.

Karzai was a mistake.  Our treatment of Doostum was a mistake.  Had it not been for Doostum, would we have been as successful in the early days of the war.  We threw numerous allies under the bus in supporting Karzai.  Doostum was fighting while Karzai was running for his life.  Karzai is a coward.  Always was, always will be…

Fuckin’ pussy.

Ahmad Shah Massoud

I was looking for some video of Ahmad Shah Massood. The Lion of Panshjir. When I came across this one, I thought it was pretty funny. I took it to work with me to show the guys. My Afghani crew. They freaked out. At first a couple of them were pretty offended. Their Afghan Pride pricked. The namoos [honor] of the Great Lion of Panshjir stained by such a video. But they loosened up a bit and started to laugh.

After the shock wore off, they told me that it was ok but, “DO NOT SHOW THIS TO YOUR STUDENTS!” They would probably try to strangle me on the spot. Somehow, I don’t doubt it. Massood is the National Hero. Death afforded him that. Had he lived. Politics probably would have destroyed the man. The Russians couldn’t touch him. The Taliban couldn’t defeat him. Al Qaeda took the cowards way out and murdered him through a charade to fool him into letting down his guard.

The man was bigger than life. He was said to have been a brave and brilliant leader and fighter. The stories about him are epic. He is said to have lived modestly. He gave his money to his people. He was a fighter. A strategist. A leader. Some of the Afghans say that he would not have been too keen on American bases in Afghanistan.

I wonder. Would he have considered us an invading force? Would he have fought us? How would history record him in that instance. Many Afghans with whom I have spoken on the subject do not think that Massood would have been so welcoming to us. Some think that he would have turned and made a peace with the Taliban. I’m not so certain. I don’t think he would have done this. But I don’t know. I like to think that he would have become President of a more united Afghanistan.

At any rate. He is the great man in Afghanistan’s modern history. He overshadows all others. Karzai. Dostum. Rabbani. Hekmetyar. None of these men measure up to Massoud to the Afghan people. Drive down any street in Afghanistan. In almost any house and you will see his photo. His photo is on at least 2/3rds of the vehicles that you’ll see driving down the streets of Kabul. He is everywhere. He is a modern day Afghan Odysseus.